Clova Rae Smith

Grillz gradually gained recognition, starting with the American hip-hop scene of the 1980s.

Today, grillz are gradually gaining recognition in Japan, especially within the street scene.

Clova, who has crafted grillz for global artists like Beyoncé, has also been featured in renowned publications such as Vogue and Rolling Stone.

Recently, the collaboration event with Pinterest also garnered significant attention.

At just 26 years old, she has already built an impressive career. In this interview, she shares not only her journey but also the struggles and setbacks she has faced offering a glimpse into a side of her that is rarely seen.

About the Start of Your Career

I studied the foundation course at Camberwell College of Arts in 2017 and pursued a BA in Jewelry Design at Central Saint Martins in London in 2018.

In my first year of university, I opened an Instagram account to cover the cost of materials such as silver for my courses. I posted about the process of making jewelry and also started selling my creations. By the end of the second year of starting my brand, this had become my full-time job. During this time, due to the pandemic, most classes were held online, but I often skipped them to work on making grillz.

This was also the time when people began to rediscover the appeal of grillz, and I was receiving over 100 orders on my own. I heard that my sister was even approached by someone she met on a dating app, who asked her to request grillz from me.

So many people were buying the dental mold kits that the supplier directly contacted me. Since I wasn’t a certified dentist, I did get a little nervous at that time.

The beginning of making grillz

I started making grillz in 2020 purely because I was fascinated by them and wanted to understand how they were made. At that time, there wasn’t as much information available online, and I remember it being quite a struggle.

When I first started making grillz, I was heavily influenced by Joshua Myszczynski, a jewelry maker. He creates incredibly cool grillz and is unbelievably talented. Luckily, Josh and I became friends, and during the early stages of my journey, he shared some tips and techniques with me. Thank you so much, Josh!

I first gained attention in 2021 when I decided to do a giveaway to show more people the grillz I had made. I used a thorn design, and it received a great reaction from many people.

At that time, I was only making sculptural grillz for friends, and I never imagined I would start selling them or that the demand would grow this much.

Since then, making grillz has become my full-time job, and over the past four years, I have created grillz for over 700 people.

What is the Appeal of Grillz?

I think the appeal lies in the fact that it’s a unique and captivating presence, different from other types of jewelry.

I had a customer who was struggling with their bad teeth and told me, “I used to hate my teeth” and “I was always embarrassed and tried to hide them.” But after wearing the grillz I made, they told me it helped them feel more confident.

Being able to give people confidence and make them happy is the part I love most about this job. Smiling is said to be good for your health, and seeing my customers’ joyful expressions when they wear their new grillz is truly a special moment for me. This is the reason I continue to do this work today.

What is your greatest strength?

My greatest strength is my originality.

I always stay true to myself, and on top of that, I have a strong sense of personal style and individuality. This has consistently had a powerful influence on my work and designs.

Grillz case designed by Clova

What was the reason behind moving your base of operations from London to New York?

I burned out from my busy life in London.

At one point, I was making 40 grillz a week all by myself, and it felt like I was consumed by work. I didn’t have time to spend with friends, and working alone made me feel increasingly isolated, with fewer and fewer social interactions. Eventually, my body couldn’t keep up, and I became physically unable to work. So, in May 2022, I decided to take a break in New York for a few months.

At that time, I was updating my social media three to four times a week, so I was terrified that by stopping, I would lose everything I had built—my work, followers, and everything I had worked so hard for. Moreover, the social media algorithms were ruthless, showing me people who were copying my designs and making them. This added to the pressure I was already feeling and worsened my mental state.

A few months later, when my savings ran out, I decided to start making grills again. Honestly, it was an incredibly difficult decision for me. The pressure from people who wanted to place orders was immense, and when I tried to prioritize my health and delay the restart of work, I received harassing messages and was told to “get over it.”

From that experience, I learned to distance myself from social media, and I no longer post as frequently as I used to.

Is there a difference in the types of designs you receive orders for in London and New York?

Jewelry has always been more than just fashion—it has also symbolized status and wealth. In New York, I get the impression that people are more willing to spend money on jewelry. Americans tend to prefer bold and flashy designs, with diamonds and other eye-catching embellishments being particularly popular. On the other hand, the British are a bit more reserved when it comes to displaying wealth, so I feel that more understated designs are preferred in London compared to New York.

Additionally, the UK is currently facing several economic challenges, and with gold prices reaching an all-time high, people are less eager to purchase jewelry compared to before.

Even among jewelers, many find it difficult to create gold accessories as stock due to the high cost of materials.

In Japan, many people still associate grills with an underground image. However, what kind of people place orders for them overseas?

In New York, influenced by the music industry, more people are interested in grills compared to London.

I’ve received orders from people in various professions. Of course, musicians, tattoo artists, and actors are common, but I’ve also made grills for lawyers, doctors, and even high school students. That being said, a large percentage of my clients work in creative fields.

About collaboration with Pinterest

As part of Pinterest’s giveaway campaign tied to their trend forecast “Goddess Complex,” I had the opportunity to create custom grillz for the winners.

Several winners were selected from the UK and the US, and I personally worked with each of them to craft their unique grillz. For this project, I designed a special collection of grillz exclusively for the winners.

Each winner chose their favorite design from the collection and customized it further with the stones of their choice. The selected gemstones were inspired by elements related to spiritual healing and various chakra properties.

This project wasn’t only about designing a grillz collection, it was a special chance to share my work with others in a meaningful way. Meeting the winners in person and creating something unique together made the experience truly fulfilling and unforgettable.

About future plans

For the future, there may be possibilities, but since I just turned 26, I’m not currently considering expanding my base of operations. I’m always thinking about and debating business expansion, but for now, I don’t feel ready to take that step.

In the past, I’ve hired employees and expanded my business, but I’ve realized that I prefer working alone. I consider myself an artist, not a manufacturer. Having employees or running a store comes with a lot of responsibility. I love traveling and don’t like feeling tied down. Traveling also fuels my creativity, which is essential to my work.

Currently, I work on a fully appointment-based system, taking only about ten orders per month. This allows me to dedicate time to each piece, ensuring quality while avoiding burnout. I believe this approach is the most ideal for me and enables me to provide the best service to my clients. Each piece is created with care and full attention.

Could you share any advice for young people who aim to make an impact globally in the future?

My advice is to “stay true to yourself.” While attending a top art university, I started my own brand. There, my professors repeatedly told me, “Stop what you’re doing and focus on your studies.” But I didn’t listen to those words.

Find something that you truly enjoy and create for yourself. Break down boundaries, express yourself authentically, and people will resonate with it and support you.

The grills that brought me attention were all created because I wanted to wear them myself. I seized every opportunity that came my way and relentlessly moved forward to build my brand. My grades were never the top, but eventually, I was chosen for DAZED’s “UAL Graduate Hot List.”

All of the collaborations I’ve had so far have been initiated by them reaching out to me. I believe this was possible because I never stopped being “true to myself.”